On my next visit to the library in Amsterdam, I found that Mr. Binnerts had actually looked some things up for me during my absence. When I went into the reading room straight from school, my book bag still on my back, he glanced up with a smile. "So it's you," he said in his nice English. "My young historian. I have something for you, for your project." I followed him to his desk and he took out a book. "This is not such an old book," he told me. "But it has some very old stories in it. They are not very happy reading, my dear, but maybe they will help you write your paper." Mr. Binnerts settled me at a table, and I looked gratefully at his retreating sweater. It touched me to be trusted with something terrible.

The book was called Tales from the Carpathians, a dingy nineteenth-century tome published privately by an English collector named Robert Digby. Digby's preface outlined his wanderings among wild mountains and wilder languages, although he had also gone to German and Russian sources for some of his work. His tales had a wild sound, too, and the prose was romantic enough, but examining them long afterward, I found his versions of them compared favorably to those of later collectors and translators. There were two tales about "Prince Dracula," and I read them eagerly. The first recounted how Dracula liked to feast out of doors among the corpses of his impaled subjects. One day, I learned, a servant complained openly in front of Dracula about the terrible smell, whereupon the prince ordered his men to impale the servant above the others, so the smell would not offend the dying servant's nose.

Digby presented another version of this, in which Dracula shouted for a stake three times the length of the stakes on which the others had been impaled. The second story was equally gruesome. It described how Sultan Mehmed II had once sent two ambassadors to Dracula. When the ambassadors came before him, they did not remove their turbans. Dracula demanded to know why they were dishonoring him in this way, and they replied that they were simply acting in accordance with their own customs. "Then I shall help you to strengthen your customs," replied the prince, and he had their turbans nailed to their heads.

I copied Digby's versions of these two little tales into my notebook. When Mr. Binnerts came back to see how I was getting along, I asked him if we might look for some sources on Dracula by his contemporaries, if there were any. "Certainly," he said, nodding gravely. He was going off his desk then, but he would look around for something as soon as he had time. Perhaps after that -  he shook his head, smiling - perhaps after that I would find some pleasanter topic, such as medieval architecture. I promised - smiling, too - that I would think about it.

There is no place on earth more exuberant than Venice on a breezy, hot, cloudless day. The boats rock and swell in the Lagoon as if launching themselves, crewless, on adventure; the ornate facades brighten in the sunlight; the water smells fresh, for once. The whole city puffs up like a sail, a boat dancing unmoored, ready to float off. The waves at the edge of the Piazza di San Marco become raucous in the wake of the speedboats, producing a festive but vulgar music like the clash of cymbals. In Amsterdam, Venice of the North, this jubilant weather would have made the city sparkle with renewed purpose. Here, it ended by showing cracks in the perfection - a weedy fountain in one back square, for example, whose water should have been on full spray and instead made a rusty dribble over the lip of the basin. Saint Mark's horses pranced shabbily in the glittering light. The columns of the doge's palace looked disagreeably unwashed.

I commented on this air of dilapidated celebration, and my father laughed.

"You've got an eye for atmosphere," he said. "Venice is famous for her stage show, and she doesn't mind if she gets a little run-down, as long as the world pours in here to worship her." He gestured around the outdoor caf¨¦ - our favorite place after Florian's - at the perspiring tourists, their hats and pastel shirts flapping in the breeze off the water. "Wait till evening and you won't be disappointed. A stage set needs a softer kind of light than this. You'll be surprised by the transformation."

For now, sipping my orangeade, I was too comfortable to move, anyway; waiting for a pleasant surprise suited my aims exactly. It was the last hot spell of summer before autumn blew in. With autumn would come more school and, if I was lucky, a little peripatetic studying with my father as he roamed a map of negotiation, compromise, and bitter bargains. This fall he would be in Eastern Europe again, and I was already lobbying to be taken along.

My father drained his beer and flipped through a guidebook. "Yes." He pounced suddenly. "Here's San Marco. You know, Venice was a rival of the Byzantine world for centuries, and a great sea power, too. In fact, Venice stole some remarkable things from Byzantium, including those carousel animals up there." I looked out from under our awning at Saint Mark's, where the coppery horses seemed to be dragging the weight of the dripping leaden domes behind them. The whole basilica looked molten in this light - garishly bright and hot, an inferno of treasure. "Anyway," said my father, "San Marco was designed partly in imitation of Santa Sophia, in Istanbul."

"Istanbul?" I said slyly, dredging my glass for ice. "You mean it looks like the Hagia Sophia?""Well, of course the Hagia Sophia was overrun by the Ottoman Empire, so you see those minarets guarding the outside, and inside there are huge shields bearing Muslim holy texts. You really see East and West collide in there. But then there are the great domes on the top, distinctly Christian and Byzantine, like San Marco's."

"And they look like these?" I pointed across the piazza.

"Yes, very much like these, but grander. The scale of the place is overwhelming. It takes your breath away."

"Oh," I said. "Could I get another drink, please?"

My father glared at me suddenly, but it was too late. Now I knew that he had been to Istanbul himself.